The UDO Worm is a great oddball worm in its own right (see the third image at the beginning of the video), but more importantly it illustrates how adhesives can be used to “construct” flies.
Hook: Any curved shank scud, octopus, or bait hook featuring an offset shank, all the way from “huge” to “tiny.”
Weight: .010 or .015 lead wire, optional.
Thread: Red, 3/0 to 10/0 depending on fly size.
Body: Holographic red Flashabou over thread.
Coloration: Black nail polish.
Coatings: 1. UV cure resin, here Loon UV Thin. 2. Sally Hansen’s Hard as Nails or similar clear nail polish. Omit UV cure on small sizes, consider adding an additional layer of it on the largest sizes.
This is my favorite pattern for carp fishing the upper Missouri River near Toston, Montana, about 2hr 15min from Gardiner. Montana isn’t exactly known as a carp-fishing mecca, and the Missouri is usually known only for its trout, but this stretch of river is shallow and clear enough to offer sight-fishing opportunities for carp averaging 4 to 12lbs. They make a great changeup for trout fishing in August and early September.
Hook: Clouser-style, #2-6.
Thread: 3/0 or 6/0 brown.
Eyes: Black bead chain, brass, or lead (lightest to heaviest). Tie a variety of weights.
Belly: Natural gray squirrel tail.
Flash: Black, medium brown, or root beer Krystal Flash, or a mix of two of the above. Keep the flash sparse.
While this color is intended for use on the Firehole River, where it matches the crucial June and September White Miller or Nectopsyche caddis, a few color tweaks makes this pattern match any caddis you wish, and it also makes a good low-riding attractor dry for summer. Tie them in olive-brown for the upcoming Mother’s Day Caddis Hatch, imminent on the Yellowstone & Madison!
Hook: Short shank dry, #12-20 (especially #14-16). Here, #16.
Thread: 8/0 to match or contrast overall color tones of the fly. Here, cream.
Body: Dubbing of your choice. Here, golden Arizona Synthetic Peacock. Keep the body sparse and rather scraggly.
Wing and Head: Widow’s Web or similar hydrophobic synthetic. Here, beige. Typical “realistic” colors are caddis tan and light tan. Typical “attractor” colors are white, polar bear, and beige.
Hackle: 4-5 turns of saddle hackle, trimmed under the hook. Here, barred light ginger.
I designed the purple Windshield Haze (formerly Purple Haze Soft Hackle or Drowned Purple Haze) to imitate a drowned BWO dun that got sucked under and is therefore easy prey for the trout. While initially intended as a fly for beginners to fish on a short (6″) dropper behind some sort of larger dry fly they could see, this fly’s effectiveness means I now have experienced anglers fish it early and late in the season, as well. I have experienced anglers fish it on a slightly longer dropper behind a small dropper, especially my Purple Hazy Cripple in #16. Since this fly is tied on a light wire emerger hook, it sinks slowly and only a few inches, so even a small dry can serve as an indicator, and you’ll often see the fish make porpoise rises to this bug, without having to wait for the dry to dive to indicate a strike. It has produced several rainbows in the high teens on guide trips this spring. I expect to try it in a wide range of colors this season, because whenever I’ve used it, this fly has rocked.
The Zirdle Bug is a red-hot streamer/nymph combo “junk fly” in southwest Montana, particularly on lower-elevation rivers like the Beaverhead, lower Madison, Jefferson, and Missouri, where crayfish are present. It roughly matches crayfish, sculpins and other baitfish, and stonefly nymphs. Fish it in a variety of ways: swung or stripped like a streamer, dead-drifted under an indicator, or dragged on a tight line. This one is sort of a tan-copper-brown-orange color, but you can tie them in a wide range of natural and attractor colors. This one is merely intended to serve as an example.
Hook: #4-10 3xl nymph/streamer, here #6.
Weight: .015-.035 lead or lead-free wire, here .035.
Thread: 6/0 to match or contrast the body, here light brown.
Tail: Krystal Flash. Here, root beer.
Body: Brindle chenille, here Amberstone New Age Chenille.
Legs: Medium round rubber, here Wapsi barred rubber in olive with chartreuse and orange specks.
Wing: Standard rabbit strip, here black-barred tan with orange tips.
This is an excellent bug on the Yellowstone in August and early September and does double duty as a caddis or even (due to its rusty appearance) a mayfly emerger.
Hook: Standard dry, #14-18.
Thread: 8/0 rusty brown.
Head and Abdomen: Rusty brown acrylic dubbing. Here, it’s just craft yarn chopped up in a blender, but use whatever you like.
Wing: Light tan Widow’s Web or similar hydrophobic synthetic, tied in vee-style. You can also use white.
Hackle: Badger, 4-6 turns. You can also use brown, grizzly-brown, etc.
Reminder: Walter at the Wasatch Fly Fishing Show
I’ll be tying three sessions at the Wasatch Fly Fishing Show this upcoming weekend. Come say hi Friday morning, Friday afternoon, or Saturday afternoon. I’ll be tying spring, summer, and fall flies for the Yellowstone River and Yellowstone area.
The Extended Body Girdle Bug (Rubberlegs, Pat’s Rubberlegs, there are many names) is a twist on probably the most popular nymph in the northern Rockies these days. With a tungsten bead and simple extended body, it sinks like a brick and has more movement than most Girdle Bugs. Here I tie it in a copper/tan/brown color, but the basic pattern is a good “changeup” for any color of Pat’s Rubberlegs.
Hook: 1x short 1x strong scud hook, #6 (can go smaller with smaller beads and a smaller diameter of lead wire).
Bead: 3/16″ black nickel tungsten.
Thread: 6/0 dark brown.
Horns: Short section of copper-brown barred Sexi Floss or similar spandex rubberleg material, tied in pinch-style.
Weight: .035 lead or non-toxic wire.
Tails: Long section of copper-brown barred Sexi Floss or similar spandex rubberleg material, tied in pinch-style.
Body: “Henry’s Lake” New Age Chenille. Other variegated chenilles are also good.
Legs: Three short sections of copper-brown barred Sexi Floss or similar spandex rubberleg material, tied in with X-wraps and reinforced with head cement. Can cut back to two legs if desired, particularly on smaller sizes.
This is a good small to medium rough water attractor dry. With the abundant hackle clipped underneath, tight synthetic body materials that don’t absorb water, and synthetic wing, it is buoyant but floats low in the film. These features, along with the alternate hook used compared to the standard Stimulator, also make it float correctly every time and give it good hooking properties. To top it off, it’s even quick to tie.
Tie the Synth Stimmy in colors to match your favorite Stimulator (except yellow, alas, because the body material is not available in this color) or in other “attractor” or “imitator” colors.
Hook: 2xl curved shank nymph/hopper (Here MFC #7231), #10-16. Do not use standard Stimulator hooks.
Thread #1: MFC Midge Body thread OR Veevus Iridescent thread. Here, MFC Midge Body in golden olive.
Abdomen: One to several layers of thread #1, depending on hook size and material used. Note that the tying method varies depending on which material is used, particularly in small hook sizes. See the video for details on how to create the body using both materials.
Thread #2: 8/0, here light olive.
Body Hackle: Dry fly saddle secured at front of abdomen and palmered back to rear of abdomen. Here, grizzly dyed March Brown
Rib: Thread #1. See video for method.
Wing: MFC Widow’s Web or EP Trigger Point fibers. Here, cinnamon caddis EP.
Front Hackle: Dry fly saddle. Here, grizzly dyed March Brown.
Adhesive #1: Super glue over thread wraps securing wing butts and front hackle.
The Euroflash is a variation on the Butano Perdigon distinguished by the addition of sparse legs and the fact the tungsten bead is buried in the fly’s thorax. It’s an effective, fast-sinking, technical mayfly nymph or midge pupa, whether you’re using Euro nymphing techniques, sight-nymphing, or fishing the fly under a hopper or indicator. Try it in various colors and #14-20.
Hook: 1x short 1x strong scud, #14-20 (especially #16-18).
Bead: Tungsten to match hook size and disappear somewhat in the thorax. This color is brown.
Thread: Dark brown 8/0 on this color, otherwise a dark color to match natural insects or rest of fly (black and dark brown are best).
Tail: Dark pardo coq-de-leon.
Abdomen: Holographic Flashabou, in this case olive. Other good colors are red, black, purple, and copper, but feel free to try assorted colors.
Wing Case: UTC opal tinsel, size medium or small.
Thorax: Tying thread and the bead (secure the bead with X-wraps).
Legs: A few strands of Fluoro-Fibre secured vee-style. On this color, use gray. Most other colors of the pattern are best with gray or dark brown.
Body Coating: UV-cure resin over entire fly except legs.
This is a good one to tie for the late winter midges we often see in the afternoons. Quick too!
Hook: #18-22 short shank dry fly (use #12-16 for chironomids in lakes).
Thread: 10/0 black. Change color to match the overall body color of the midges you’re imitating
Wing Post: White Widow’s Web or similar hydrophobic (poly) yarn.
Rib: Pearl Midge Krystal Flash.
Body: Fine black dubbing, or color to match your local midges.
Hackle: Grizzly, 3-4 turns on smaller sizes and 4-5 turns for chironomids.
Fish this one during afternoon midge hatches on Yellowstone area rivers, particularly in the winter and early spring. When doing this, look for slow walking-speed seams with foam. Fish this bug behind a more-buoyant and visible dry. I prefer #16 Purple Hazy Cripples or Trudes. The latter actually look like midge clusters due to the peacock body, particularly when skies are gray so the wing appears to be a buzz of movement over the fly.
You can also tie the pattern larger to serve as a dry chironomid in lakes. Fish it solo then, or even run a tiny beadhead under it on a short dropper.